Nathan's Insights

Monday 29 May 2023
Highlights: Kalta Minor Minaret, Tash-Khovli Palace, Madrasah Qutlug Murad, Tash-Khauli Palace, Juma Mosque, Islom-Hoja Minaret (tallest in Uzbekistan), and Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum

Today was a chance to explore this unique city-museum of Khiva in more detail. The city was established around 1500 years ago but there were inhabitants even earlier. In 1991 Khiva was the first site in Uzbekistan to be inscribed in the World Heritage List (UNESCO). Khiva was the former capital of the Khanate of Khiva, and the Khorezm People’s Soviet Republic.

First up was a revisit of the Kalta Minor Minaret, also known as the Unfinished Minaret built in 1855. This was going to be the tallest minaret of its time but the Khan died before completion and the next Khan put his money into structures that could have his name. It still stands at an impressive 29 metres.

From here we revisited Tash-Khovli Palace but this time Rustam explain the history of the Palace including the executions done in this area. Most of the execution were creative and gruesome. Inside the Palace we also explore the Summer Mosque of the Palace and the Greeting Hall courtyard.

Next up was a visit to the Madrasah Qutlug Murad, which is now home to the Museum of the Ruler and the Poet. The madrasah (school) building was impressive and the museum housed photos from the 1910s of the locals and their rulers from just before the Soviet Red Army invade in 1920s and changed the way of life forever.

We then visited the Tash-Khauli Palace. This Palace was built by a Khan who wanted to show off his wealth by not staying in the original Palace. While at this Palace we visited the attach Harem and learned about the terrible place this was for all women involved, whether that be the 4 wives or their 10 concubines who had no say in being there. These 44 women had little rights and were easily removed, many took their lives on leaving the Harem.

A visit to the Juma Mosque is a 10th-18th century mosque historically used for Friday Prayers were every Muslim had to pray together. This Mosque was very different to others visited on this trip with it’s wooden columns and two open roof areas to allow light in.

Next up we visited and learned about the Islom-Hoja Minaret which at 57 metres is the tallest in Uzbekistan and one of the tallest in the world.

Our final stop of the day was at the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum. Pahlavon Mahmud was a poet, philosopher and legendary wrestler. His 1326 tomb was rebuilt in the 19th century and then later requisitioned in 1913 by the Khan of the day as his family mausoleum. Most of the Pahlavon Mahmud’s later teaching were based on the principles of courage, kindness and generosity, and nobility.

At 6.30 pm the six of us going to Uzbekistan (Amy, Kyle, Nancy, Mike and myself) met our new guide for Turkmenistan in Eziz for a briefly on Turkmenistan and the next 5 days. Afterwards we have a final dinner today with the full group.