Nathan's Insights

Official Name: Turkmenistan
Established: 1924 (Turkmen Soviet Socialist Republic ) / 31 August 1991 (Independence from PSUSSR)
Population: 5.6 million (2022 estimate)
Religion: Muslim (93%)
Official Languages: Turkmen
Capital: Ashgabat
Order of Visit: 77
Planned First Visit: 30 May 2023
Planned Last Visit: 03 June 2023
Duration: 5 Days
Must Do: To be discovered!
Cities to be visited: Dashoguz, Darvaza, Ashgabat
Published: 28 March 2023 | Updated: 24 February 2024

Location and Geography

Turkmenistan is a landlocked country located in Central Asia, bordered by Kazakhstan to the northwest, Uzbekistan to the north, east and northeast, Afghanistan to the southeast, Iran to the south and southwest and the Caspian Sea to the west. Turkmenistan has an area of 491,210 square kilometres. Turkmenistan is the world’s 52nd-largest country.

History and Culture

Historically inhabited by the Indo-Iranians, the written history of Turkmenistan begins with its annexation by the Achaemenid Empire of Ancient Iran. Later, in the 8th century AD, Turkic-speaking Oghuz tribes moved from Mongolia into present-day Central Asia. Part of a powerful confederation of tribes, these Oghuz formed the ethnic basis of the modern Turkmen population.

In the second half of the 19th century, northern Turkmens were the main military and political power in the Khanate of Khiva (modern day Uzbekistan).

Russian forces began occupying Turkmen territory late in the 19th century. The Russians eventually overcame the Uzbek khanates.  In 1924, the Turkmen Soviet Socialist Republic was formed.  By the late 1930s, Soviet (USSR) reorganization of agriculture had destroyed what remained of the nomadic lifestyle in Turkmenistan, and Moscow controlled political life.

On 26 December 1991, the Soviet Union ceased to exist. Then-communist leader Saparmurat Niyazov continued as Turkmenistan’s chief of state, replacing communism with a unique brand of independent nationalism.  In 1999 Niyazov abolish Presidential election effectively becoming president for life.  In 2005, Niyazov exercised his dictatorial power by closing all hospitals outside Ashgabat and all rural libraries.

The sudden death of Niyazov at the end of 2006 left a complete vacuum of power.  Then Deputy Prime Minister Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, assumed power and in 2022 son Serdar Berdimuhamedow took over, establishing a political dynasty in Turkmenistan with an established dictatorship.

Turkmenistan possesses the world’s fifth largest reserves of natural gas.[23] Most of the country is covered by the Karakum Desert.  Turkmenistan is an observer state in the Organisation of Turkic States, the Türksoy community and a member of the United Nations.

What drew me to visit Turkmenistan?

To experience a unique and secluded country that is sometimes called the North Korea with oil. To see the Darvaza Gas Crater also known as ‘The Gates to Hell’, to explore the dazzling marble city of Ashgabat, see and experience a country like none I’ve ever visited before with extremely limited democratic history in the top leadership positions and a strong military combined with a strong history of independence from other countries except for when part of the USSR.

This visit was part of the Five Stans of Silk Road G Adventures tour that will see me visiting; Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan.

What I experienced

Turkmenistan is not the easiest place to visit, just getting past the border was an ordeal and not just because of the COVID-19 testing which one day won’t be a thing. This is a tightly controlled country and you only have the most basic connection with the wider world. The Turkmenistan internet firewall defeated my access attempts, something the Chinese Government didn’t manage!

This is a very dry country with vast deserts in the region I visited. Exploring Kunya-Urgench I found wonders of architecture some over 10 centuries old. People can create amazing structures and solve problems, ancient construction that seems impossible without modern technology but somehow it was built.

The Darvaza Gas Crater was the real highlight of my visit to this remote country. The Crater and it’s flaming gases felt otherworldly.

That night at the campsite, outside my Yurt, I experienced a beautiful night sky brighten by the so called Gates of Hell, which despite the name create feelings of peace and relaxation.

Being far out in nature and without distractions who can really experience some of the wonders of this world. Hiking the next day in the Karakum Desert and visiting a water crater reinforced the feelings of contentment from the night before.

Ashgabat is a marble metropolis showing the wealth of the natural resources in particular gas in grand fashion. It was in the capital that I felt the restrictive nature of the Government but also the warmth of the local people from locals opening up an indoor Ferris Wheel attraction just for our group (without payment) to the wedding celebration we came across with people wanting us to join in on the celebrations.

While I left Turkmenistan unwell I still felt I gained an appreciation of its landscape and the people that made it well worth the trouble of visiting this closed off and secretive country.