Nathan's Insights

Saturday 27 May 2023
Highlights: The Samanid Mausoleum, visiting the Boloi Havz Mosque, exploring the Ark of Bukhara (Fortress), learning the history of Kalyan Minaret, exploring the Kalyan Mosque.

Today was day 2 of exploring Bukhara in depth. After breakfast at our hotel, we left at 8.30 am to try to beat the coming heat.

Our first visit was to the Samanid Mausoleum. This Mausoleum was built in the late 9th century for the rulers of the Samanid Empire. It was built outside the ancient city and was later lost under sand and was therefore spared when the Mongol’s destroyed most of Bukhara in the 13th century.

Next up was a visit to the Boloi Havz Mosque. Built in 1712 the mosque is on the opposite side of the Ark of Bukhara. Unfortunately it is now shut to visitors due to some previous tourist not following the clothing rules for mosques. Still the outside highlights some great architectural features.

We then walked to the Ark of Bukhara sometimes call the Citadel of the Ark, which is a Fortress of Bukhara. The Ark was initially built and occupied around the 5th century AD and used by Royals / Leaders of Bukhara until the until it fell to Russia in 1920. This was the site where two high ranking British diplomats (some says spies) where executed by beheading in 1842 – British Colonel Charles Stoddart and Arthur Connolly.

We then walked past and briefly looked at some excavation work while walking back to Kalyan square. Rustam provided detailed insights into the history of the structures. We learnt out Uzbekistan only has 9 operating madrasas, down from over 300 at their peak, and the Mir-I-Arab Madrasa is one of them.

We also learnt about the history of the Kalyan Minaret and how it was originally a light to help Silk Road traders find their way and only changed into a call for prayers later once Islamic religion was created. We also learnt that Genghis Khan in the 13th century and the Red Army in 1920 couldn’t destroy the minaret due to is strong foundations (20 metres deep) and construction materials.

We then went into the Kalyan Mosque which can hold up to 30,000 worshippers which is usually does twice a year and was built in the 15th century. An impressive structure and the architecture allows the imam’s voice to be carried across the complex without technology.

At this point it was around 1 pm and heating up. The group’s formal activities were over for the day and we agreed that a group dinner wasn’t needed tonight. From this point everyone went to explore the city on their own. I slowly walked back to our hotel exploring several shops. Later in the day the Lyabi Hauz Pool which had sprinklers operating into the pool.

Tomorrow we have a very long drive to Khiva. This could take up to 8-9 hours and is mostly through a desert so I downloaded some music, podcasts and shows to help past the time. Khiva will be the last city before hopefully moving onto the last new country of this trip in Turkmenistan.